DIRECTIONAL
ANALYSIS
For design to make its mark on a global level, a voice must carry itself
imperviously through the distractions of the fashion gauntlet. This
voice is born in the studio, honed on the runway, trained in the market
and refined back in the studio, behind closed doors. True emergence,
however, necessitates cooperation. What is
Canada's fashion statement? The picture is becoming clearer
as communal energy comes to fruition.
Let's focus
on the details. The Canadian Spring 2002 colour palette is particular,
with taupe, powder blue and green reigning in all it's regal shades
- jade, lime, emerald and forest. Black is a powerful signifier for
the season and is mitigated with charcoal accents. Variegated stripes
offer a rainbow of possibilities. The fabric on this season's runways
are boldly experimental, with Crystal Siemens leading the pack. The
wide use of knits, chiffon and jersey aside, the most stunning pieces
come in satin, soft leather, organza and high-tech lycra and microfibres.
Pinstripes
are the biggest headlines of the season, with Envers and Dubuc using
them to draw long, distinguished lines with acuity. Geometric prints
and cuts are David Dixon's playthings as he pieces together a collection
of true originals. Both Dixon and Marisa Minicucci bring bias-cut dirndl
skirts into the 21st century while the fine craft of tailoring is artfully
articulated by YSO in a neo-romanticist vein. This dramatic neo-romanticism
is expounded upon by Pat McDonagh, Envers and Dubuc, positing it as
a force to be contended with. Dubuc and McDonagh also explore Latin
terrain, their already untouchable collections taking on wordly qualities.
Wide belts are popular and are central anchor points for Dixon, Minicucci
and new Montreal designer Morales.
The evidence
weighs in heavily. The Canadian lean, having no great historical oeuvre
to deconstruct, is constructivist by nature. Silhouette is the big winner.
One only has to look at Kamkyl's punk-inspired raw seams to see how
this modus operandi is being made transparent, even celebrated. Misura,
by Joeffer Caoc, embodies this message perfectly and delivers it unequivocally
with a brilliant collection. The fluid structural cooperation between
the symmetrical seamwork and bias-cut edges results in a world-class
style.
A style
that is Canada's own.
Daniel Cox
Fashion Editor
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©2001 MINIMIDIMAXI LTD.
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