Mackage
spring/summer 2004

Mackage Spring 2004 takes streamlined fashion to an exciting new threshold. Not one piece left the runway without making either an aerodynamic or erotic statement.

It may have something to do with how Mackage raised their hemlines, similarly to how Balenciaga's Nicolas Ghesquière lifted them in Paris this season-through the roof. Elisa Dahan and Eran Elfassy gave us other damning evidence, in the form of sleek leather dickeys whose place in the zeitgeist is purely decorative.

Everything Mackage does this season bears evidence of a subtle hand. Fine leather detailing, the label's signature touch, is plentiful in the collection. Zippers, buckles and lacing seem to be a la mode this season in Montreal, and more than one of the treated leather jackets in this collection have these ornamental attachments. Dusty rose has never looked so sinister, with devil-pointed collars.

As to be expected, there is a host of fitted leather mini-jackets of varying colour, but I can't imagine why they would need bands of wool at the bottom, except to make up for the skimpiness. Can someone turn on the heat?

There's something refreshing about the pairing of unlikely colours, especially ones like cream and pale yellow that duke it out for bragging rights on sumptuously textured leather. There's a reason why every design element wants to take credit for the new Mackage. It's freaking great.

Daniel Cox
Fashion Editor
Marek Wlazlo
Photographer

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