Marie Saint Pierre - fall/winter 2002

Welcome to ready-to-wear in its finest hour.

In arguably the most stunning collection of the Fall/Winter 2002-03 season, Marie Saint Pierre creates seamlessly fluid style in black, white and red. The treasury is totally unfettered by accoutrement, save for the understandable exception of the fur accents Saint Pierre does so well. Raw-cut rabbit pelts make contrasting additions to straight-cut black tops and pants.

The silhouettes in this collection possess a downward momentum, either falling smoothly in a single swoop or in cascading triple layers. Similar to a good portion of the long pieces, the zip-up black mohair dress with flowering asymmetric collar has closure details which imply an outerwear utility; left partially unzipped will expose shocking bits of cadmium red separates. But what really secures Saint Pierre’s place on the podium is her innovative fusion of delicate gossamer and technology fabrics. An unbelievably textureless off-white foam dress-coat and jacket with black Victorian lace detailing (held together with a single string tie at the neck) holds its shape while flowing down like a caramel coating.

When you introduce bold elements into a minimalist collection, the stakes are raised; the challenge to integrate is heightened. The fuchsia satin side-wrap Kimono trench comes up all spades, reflecting the collection’s molten suaveness. Put this stuff up against any of the fashion greats and I guarantee it’s a coin toss.

Daniel Cox, Fashion Editor
Marek Wlazlo, Photographer