Nadya Toto - fall/winter 2003

The Montreal crowd had no idea that when they were putting back martinis, they were raising their glasses to embroidery.

The busy floral embroidery in Nadya Toto’s Fall 2003 collection is a sort of kiss of the spider woman, bestowing grace on otherwise brooding black pieces. Relief takes other forms, of course, and what better than eye-popping crimson taffeta, all dandied up in elaborate chinoiserie.

Toto knows that her clientele is diverse and uses sparing embroidery in the cowl neck triple-layer black dress as well as a little tan number with a cinched hem.

Nadya Toto can’t resist the possibilities of faux-fur, and the unruly tufts are reminiscent of the Arctic warmth she pulled out for Fall 2002. The fur and fur-lined vests that were all the rage that season also make a comeback. Details such as zippers, hooks, straps and diamante-studs plaster the runways this season, and this collection is no exception.

Toto makes good use of metallic and iridescent fabrics, as well as two-tone textured corduroy. Although the prolific use of certain fabrics would have one believe that they are the subject of a studio love affair, the fabric is never challenged to behave in a way other than it is known to do.

Nadya Toto’s eveningwear is always the highlight of the show. This time it’s black lace palazzos and dresses, and they just ooze the decadent Italian luxury that keep the glasses, and the guest lists, overflowing.

Daniel Cox, Fashion Editor
Marek Wlazlo, Photographer