Ula Zukowska - fall/winter 2003

Ula Zukowska Fall 2003 is nothing short of breathtaking.

The collection kicked off with snug fitting duo-tone Vistk creations that appear quite at home in their asymmetric cuts. The charcoal knit dresses and skirts with reef ruching look alive, as does a beige knit dimpled sweater that looks more like a sea anemone than a piece of clothing. Ula’s organic sensitivities allow for green in every incarnation to sprout throughout the collection. Even her new takes on the lightweight Bladerunner jacket that she is famous for can’t resist dipping itself in a pale emerald.

“Green is very suitable for the Ula terrain. It can be calming, yet also very aggressive.”

An incredible sequence of gold and black sheer chiffon combined with raw-cut leather almost defies fashion logic; to categorize any of these pieces as reversible would be a severe underestimation. One such piece posing as a skirt and moonlighting as a shawl is so elaborately constructed that a stunning silhouette materializes no matter how you drape it. There is a schema to the hardcore layering in the collection, as Ula points out.

“It’s important that my pieces offer the promise of daily renewal, a chance to configure it differently every time you wear it.”

The nomadic preparedness of the collection is a theme that resonates globally this season, as Alexander McQueen’s Fall 2003 courrier-come-warrior trip testifies to. While restless urbanites around the world join forces, it looks like Ula’s keeping us in the loop.

Daniel Cox, Fashion Editor
Marek Wlazlo, Photographer