Misura - fall/winter 2004

In a vivid ode to the fabulousness of actress Tallulah Bankhead, Joeffer Caoc gives us a taste of hedonism for fall 2004. I guess when you’re a movie star you can get away with wearing flagrantly ’spring’ colours and styles. Vive la multi-seasonal revolution!

A few burnt umber pieces (in affectionately-titled ‘bankhead’ stripes) are the only sober pieces in the collection, and they do their job effectively, as business-casual wear that’s difficult to mismatch shoes with. It’s also great to see Misura do snug tweeds, one of the only canvasses that would have supported the cool leather chevron inlays.

The bulk of the collection is gossamer skimp-artful chiffon and satin creations that include electric blue as a visual fuel. It’s apparent that Caoc resolved to play around with different strapping techniques for every piece, and if you can get past the deliberateness of a designer who is usually so subtle, some of the details are exciting for their newness.

Paradise does have its drawbacks. While Misura leads us into a heady world of swirling colour, a definite departure from the label’s normal aesthetic, the fabrics chosen to deliver this coup were less than dynamic. Many of the glittery little dresses were missing the structure and shape that we have come to salivate over when witnessing a Misura collection. There were exceptions: the gunmetal turquoise mini-suits and evening gowns retain a strong devotion to the rigors of being symmetrical. Using fuchsia as the firecracker tone that it is, especially at a time when it appears to be blanketing the world, redeems whatever is lost in a collection that tries to do too much.

Daniel Cox, Fashion Editor
Marek Wlazlo, Photographer