Denis Gagnon - fall/winter 2005

Denis Gagnon’s ready-to-wear maintains the unmistakable couture look for Fall 2005, while simplifying many of the designer’s ideas.

The focus is all on hip-swing in this ultra-chic collection, as can be witnessed in any of the women’s wear pieces. Many of the organically crafted pieces defy category, preferring simply to fold and unravel around the hips with as much classic Gagnon as they can possibly muster.

This penchant for oblique, delicate chaos in many of the pieces-which in this collection are invariably in black, white or subtly glinting metallic shades of grey-is down-played by the simplicity of fluid lines.

Gagnon’s unapologetically unfinished leather plays a significant part in the collection, from broad tailed three-quarter jackets to searing skintight pants. He does manage to mix it up for women, stepping away from formless beauty and towards more conventional structures. A swooshy black satin skirt counterpoints nicely with a tight, white embroidered halter-top with nothing but clean lines.

There are those of us who have always suspected that what makes Denis Gagnon’s ready-to-wear so different is that it always has that unmistakable couture look. The über-sexy menswear reminds us of this with its gently sloping shoulder lines, the gathered sleeve fabric and immaculate attention to detail, not to mention the recognizably Québecois chic of the low-rise pants. The newsboy caps complete the look without being theatrically excessive . And thankfully, someone had the sense to exploit jeans for their sex appeal this season.

Daniel Cox, Fashion Editor
Marek Wlazlo, Photographer