New Labels TFI - fall/winter 2005

Elle Canada’s 2005 New Labels design competition grandstanded the diversity of new Canadian design talent waiting in the cutting-room wings.

Pierre Jale went for the jack-of-all-trades approach and showed off futuristic silver and black evening wear, a gathered off-the-shoulder blouse and straightforward grey suits. The general lack of cohesiveness was made up for by some outstanding pieces, such as the fragile black blouse and the overcoat with broad trimline detailing.

Nostalgy had some nifty boat-neck pointillist shirts in pastels one would normally expect of a spring (not fall) collection. While the cinematic costuming was titillating at least for its accuracy, latching onto the trends of ’20’s flapper insouciance mixed with 60’s mod may not be the best way to stand out in a New Labels show. Will having the name Nostalgy mean that the label will forevermore have to purvey retro fantasy?

It was no surprise when sprightly CinCyn took the New Labels cake. Cindy Custodio and Cynthia Florek, who have been operating their company on the down-low since 2002, presented some dandy Edwardian ready-to wear suits for women that were almost as fresh as their outerwear. The variegated green coat with leather patch detailing is retro but unusually unique. What looks like a burgundy housecoat is gussied up with blue buckles and magically enters the outerwear realm. Finally, there are CinCyn’s sumptuous furs, used either as aristocratic lining, primal accoutrement, or as a primary fabric.

Daniel Cox, Fashion Editor
Marek Wlazlo, Photographer