Andy Thê-Anh - fall/winter 2006

Apparently, designing a glam-rock Ford Fusion to auction on E-Bay for breast cancer research wasn’t enough: Andy Thê-Anh also had new styles to motor down the runway for fall/winter 2006.

Brown and mahogany are the signature colours in this collection. Striped skirts, gold-embroidered two-piece suits and mohair-lined jackets look eerily at home in these earthy tones, eerie because Andy is so used to painting his glam-wear in only the most catatonic of colours. Thê-Anh manages to work his label’s flamboyance into the silhouettes, a sheared beaver wrap with detachable sleeves leading the way. What the copper silk dress accomplishes with blockbuster bang, the frill dress with powder-blue lining accomplishes with understatement.

Fur abounds, at times a smidge overdone with its play on twentieth-century Russian aristocracy. One of the cream coats has more fur accoutrement on each sleeve than some of Thê-Anh’s other pieces have fabric in their entire composition. Once again, however, this master of balance comes through. The Royal Doulton bell dress with empire waist and shell bustier, in all its lacy glory, shows that The-Anh is capable of saying much with little.

Silhouette-wise, Thê-Anh plays with a central symmetry, one that is accented and achieved by ruffles that run up the front, or cut-away chest designs, or double-breasted jackets whose lapels have only one point of contact. There is also a tendency in this collection to have lithe tops slinking into more voluminous, high-waisted skirts. There are, of course, some razor-sharp pants for those who need their fix of them.

One critique, particularly bearing in mind that the designer prides himself on knowing his clientele so well: many of the ultra-tight skirts would look terrible if you were more than ninety pounds.
Daniel Cox, Fashion Editor
Marek Wlazlo, Photographer