Mackage - fall/winter 2006

Eran Elfassy and Elisa Dahan get funky with silhouettes and styles for fall/winter 2006, challenging our ideas of what a Mackage coat should be, with mixed results.

The classic shapes in the collection are done mainly in natural hues with copious amounts of jet black. Some of the A-line silhouettes are so pronounced that they flare into a bell bottom. Rich tweeds and sinuous leather in deep natural tones provide the thread to Mackage collections of yore.

What’s new? Giving their asymmetric coats exaggerated cowl necks and dare-to-miss-me buttons, sometimes as streaks of silver lighting to gussie up an often-neglected back.

The new look, however, is impossible to extract from the fur-lined hoods that abound in this collection (they are a little much), thickening the number of Canadian design voices extolling the virtues of fur by using it at every twist and tuck. The effect, however, of installing six-inch fur collars on every second coat, is overdone hip-hop glam.

The vest with removable sleeves was a nice element, and so was the mountain braiding that lined many a hem, but it’s hard to separate these innovations from the gimmicky styling that overshadows the simplest and best elements of the collection.

Daniel Cox, Fashion Editor
Marek Wlazlo, Photographer