Rudsak - fall/winter 2006

Rudsak delivers a tight collection for fall/winter 2006, brandishing black as both weapon and lure. It was apparent from the first few coats that pranced down the catwalk of Montreal Fashion Week that the chief strength of this sortie was the masculine edge.

Where we might’ve normally seen tight fitted jackets for women from this Montreal purveyor of outerwear goodies, instead the ladies are given equally stylish yet bulkier shapes. The ultra-wide lapels on the three-quarter-length coats are not wasted-more than a few of them are festooned with oodles of chin-warming fur.

Chocolate button-up parkas give a retro nod to 80’s ski jackets. Asymmetric fronts feature exaggerated buttons as a main design feature, and sometimes these rows of silver extend to the back. At least one military style was shown, though I don’t imagine bright scarlet would provide good camouflage, I don’t care what the terrain is. And who would want to hide when you’re wearing Rudsak, anyhow?

Aside from some Burberry A-line shapes that almost break into a full trench, the exaggerated pockets of seasons past were thankfully kept to a minimum. An asymmetrically-cut three-quarter-length trench in shiny treated leather is a fierce look that counterbalances the dainty softness of many of the other pieces.

For men, basically the same masculine shapes are available, though in much less variety and a lot bulkier. There are, however, more treated leather delectables for men than for women this season, allaying my fears that Rudsak had given it up altogether. The parkas do their thing, and the fur-lined hoods provide the one element of softness in the otherwise harsh male line.

Daniel Cox, Fashion Editor
Marek Wlazlo, Photographer