Helmer - fall/winter 2007
Helmer brings more than a touch of class to fall/winter 2007, along with European elegance and glimpses into fashion history.
What is most surprising is that Helmer doesn’t behave like a new label. There are no styling mistakes, no overdoing it to impress, and no dangling threads. Rather, we have a professional outing with beautifully hand-crafted ready-to-wear that takes its cues from (gulp!) fashion masters.
It looks like someone, we won’t name names, has done their homework.
Geometry 101: Helmer Joseph must have been paying attention in the lecture on Op Art geometry, shapes which harken to the days of British fashion maven Mary Quant. From the black and white tubular patterns that first had London enthralled, to red and black zigzags, to fractured circles in assorted blues, Helmer’s swooping gowns are a visual feast. It’s amazing that with all this razzle-dazzle, simplicity is never sacrificed, and this is to the designer’s credit.
Studies in Art Deco: The great Erté, also known as Romain de Tirtoff, was a Russian-born Art Deco era artist and fashion designer who moved to Paris to make his mark, and who is incarnated in some of Helmer’s more stylized pieces. The little black dress with puffy sleeves has a staggered top, a cubist technique that is also responsible for the shingled dress. Bands of striping create arcs and soft lines that help to define Helmer’s streamlined look.
Helmer obviously has a long way to go before joining this illustrious company, but I will say this: remember the name Helmer Joseph.
Daniel Cox, Fashion Editor
Marek Wlazlo, Photographer
