Denis Gagnon - fall/winter 2008


Denis Gagnon turns leather, wool, and chiffon into his playthings for fall/winter 2008.

The leather ready-to-wear in this collection is spun in organic shapes, from the leg-hugging pants to the futuristic scoop-hoodie vest. Standing out among the sea of black is the chocolate leather jacket that is so raw it’s almost formless, save for the smartly tailored sleeves. The mohair skirt that it’s paired with is notable for being so different from everything else.

It may come as a surprise to those addicted to Denis Gagnon’s unique leather creations that the designer has adopted a new fetish material to act out his sartorial fantasies on–wool. He slices his way through a full-length wool dress in dark slate, sculpting elliptical shapes on a bias cut. There is also a navy merino off-the-shoulder version of this with textured ribbing, as well as a top with concave hem.

Chiffon has no agency to be wispy in this collection, instead bending to the will of leather-fringing. The sweeping black cape is a ghostly example of this hybrid, showing the benefits of movement just barely restricted.

If Gagnon continues to let fabrics and their possibilities inspire his collections, we’ll have many more dynamic ones to look forward to.

Daniel Cox, Fashion Editor
Marek Wlazlo, Photographer