Helmer - fall/winter 2008
Without Helmer in fall/winter 2008’s line-up, it would be less colourful, less playful, and definitely lacking in cinematic grace.
Joseph Helmer is that breed of Montreal designer that can’t imagine prêt-a-porter collection without dashes—or even heaps—of haute couture.
No matter how outlandish the colour combinations are, they are always tasteful and never gaudy. The cutesy bell dress in orange, jungle green and aqua doesn’t aspire top be anything other than what it is: an unpretentious retro piece. The orange and white checkered flute dress looks like it walked off the set of a Fellini film.
For outerwear, full-length navy wool coats have split personalities—the sobriety of a smooth mat finish with no accoutrements, combined with coral-like waves of frills below the waist. This organic look is continued in the black cocoon shrug with drawstring.
The highlight of the collection is what Helmer does with a simple white blouse. The front ribbon patchwork balances the blouses so well with their pairings, adds a deconstructionist twist, and is a rather original addition. Other white tops dazzle with balloon or dolman sleeves, or delicately filleted layers.
Daniel Cox, Fashion Editor
Marek Wlazlo, Photographer
