Andrew Majtenyi - fall/winter 2009

Fall/winter 2009 means sophistication and fantasy for Andrew Majtenyi. In many ways, it was ‘mission accomplished’ for the designer, who delivers stealth and glamour in this eclectic and highly energized collection.

The busy blouse, elbowed mini jacket, and point panel skirt is an elegant collision of colonial restraint and office dominatrix. Other pieces offer us military inspired sportswear that is both regal and simple. By the time we see the modern London classic-inspired black dress with silver gill-like detailing down the side, one thing is clear: the collection’s range is one of its strengths. Without at all appearing scattered or frenzied, we have proof enough that Majtenyi, one of Canada’s hardest-working designers, brought his A-game to the prestigious London Fashion Week.

Majtenyi works in a variety of movements, illusions as well – some simple patterns along the ribs appear vest-like and primped, and mod-like pointer dresses in exotic aqua have a more defined linear presence that the designer’s other layered ensembles.

The flagrant silhouettes of some of the pieces eclipse the hidden details, but effectively bring them to our attention. The grey and black jigsaw suit vies for attention with the zippered top underneath, and the gathered dress has the same relationship with the conservatively layered, stark orange jacket. The classy black jumper, with its black and white hyperbolic collar plays with geometric forms and again, sneaks in just a little bit of war-wear into the vernacular. The cascading trimmed floral knit dress with its intricate print is mercurial. Overall, the pieces jive quite naturally.

Nathaniel G Moore, Fashion Writer
Marek Wlazlo, Photographer