Evan Biddell - fall/winter 2009

Evan Biddell puts his best foot forward—at turns muted and flashy—for fall-winter 2009.

Mechanical Anatomy, the name of this rising star’s LG Fashion Week show, was a well-played poker hand of colourful, inventive ensembles.

Slyly zippered jackets, pants, and body-suits all vie for attention, with some making more noise than others: A cinched ski jacket is all marvel and glam, leading the way for aqueous greens, blues and purples to make the case for simple solids. Wild-patterned leggings start to mix it up with psychedelic 80s alchemy, and this trippy pattern is repeated effectively in a full-length skirt and other pieces.

Despite comparisons to Thriller-era Michael Jackson (jackets) and Grace Jones (hair and make up), the collection is memorable for its control more than for its camp.
In a season where fashion designers across the globe opted for full-on saturation, Biddell delivers his strongest pieces in muted tones. The neutrality of cement-grey zippered vests with exaggerated pockets has a friendly parlance, while the hooded grey dress brings welcome mystique to the streetwear look.

Magical pairings, though, are what make this collection special. The goldenrod, black, and blue denim patchwork dress draws me like a moth to a flame, in a collection that might very well be Evan Biddell’s strongest to date.

Nathaniel G Moore, Fashion Writer
Marek Wlazlo, Photographer