Dubuc - fall/winter 2009


Dubuc explores utilitarian, 50s-inspired menswear tailoring and gives it a modern twist for fall-winter 2009.

 

The Montreal Fashion Week show was packed to the rafters and the techno-themed sound and light extravaganza, if a tad overwhelming, was a fitting welcome to a designer marking his return to the runway after a 3-year hiatus.

Tailored techno metallic browns and grey reflect the mood, but with an at-ease feel. Skinny suits in washed wool are meant for everyday use, but make no mistake—the gently worn quality is thoughtful Dubuc design at its best. Layering different textures, as this collection demonstrates, can be right for any occasion. How’s this for an example: a grey cardigan layered over white wool pants with pleated front pockets plucked right from the 50s, rounded off with a sheer top and heavy wool jacket. Designer Philippe Dubuc might have had the Montreal winters in mind!

The collection makes utilitarian looks slicker with precise tailoring, especially in cable-knit pieces with oversized collars, which also works well when mixed with chocolate sheer. The fur insert jackets with wool sleeves have just enough volume, using fur as a fabric.

What a relief to have Dubuc back on the Montreal runway, with his unique design sense and urban flair. I only regret that his comeback did not feature womenswear, but then again, we can always steal clothes from our men.

Sass W, Fashion Writer
Marek Wlazlo, Photographer