Erdem - fall/winter 2009

Montrealer Erdem Moralioglu has pollinated London Fashion Week with a frenzy of colour with his fall-winter 2009 collection.


This is a refined spectacle of colour detail in print and embroideries that seems infinite—and at times is like witnessing an asteroid land in front of you in a riveting explosion. The solid black little doll dresses become the perfect ‘space’ background for Erdem’s galactic verbosity. Success is due to Erdem’s use of saturated colour, and keeping enough solid space between the clusters, while the collision of black lace against red satin combusts in a marvelous, seductive way.

Once again playing with saturated contrast, a monochromatic black dress is deliciously disrupted in alchemic gold flakes. The colours are not the only variety Erdem offers, as the wild ride is completed by bell sleeves flower incrusted jacket, long sweeping dresses in hourglass silhouettes with tropical embroidered prints, and the gorgeously simple high-waisted bell blue dresses. Erdem may appear to be decorating in erratic Pollackian charm at times, but there is finesse in the execution.

And it’s fun that some pieces seem deliberately starved of colour, just to make us appreciate their return that much more.

Nathaniel G Moore, Fashion Writer