Zoran Dobric - fall/winter 2009

Zoran Dobric works Dada elements into his fall-winter 2009 odyssey.

As in past seasons, Zoran Dobric’s liberal use of delicately hand-painted prints is engaging for how it siphons the colour wheel, with lush purple leading the way for women in a variety of dresses and skirts, and in a few select pieces for men. Pink, purple, and grey streamers are outdone only by a white snowflake medallion, as piece that hints at winter’s approach.
True, this collection is devoid of traditional fall colours, and contains a bevy of sombre black numbers. It’s moodiness, however, springs from a different source altogether.

Known for his drastic swerves on traditional modes, this avant-garde designer here takes a stab at, well, the avant garde! A Dadaist influence can be seen most strongly in the prints: we witness a certain measured chaos, reminiscent of the great German-French printmaker Jean Arp, and even of that art-world enfant terrible, Marcel Duchamp and his sultry alter-ego, Rrose Sélavy. And the machine motifs—not to mention the robot-like angular cuts in the men’s blazers—make me want to watch Charlie Chaplin’s Modern Times, his timeless tribute to the Industrial Age.

Practitioners of Dada, though, claimed that the movement was anti-aesthetic. Clearly, this is where Zoran Dobric must part ways with the group!

Daniel Cox, Fashion Editor
Marek Wlazlo, Photographer