Big textures, layered printsâ€¦and even fur? Is this Jeremy Laing? This eponymous collection rings in fall 2010 with more than just a shift in expectations.
Known for his angular architectural influences, Laing eschews the geometric simplicity of the past and goes for a softer touchâ€”quite literally. Like the mix of warm sunshine and crisp breeze on a fall day, the silhouettes were top-heavy with layers and plush textures, though Laing balances it with slim cuts and expert drapes of mesh and jersey.
Setting the tone for the collection, one of the signature looks was a nubby grey wool vest and a multi-toned fur scarf layered over a sheer olive and ice blue mesh dress. Colours followed an earth-bound theme: slate, black, olive, and brown, with splashes of brick red, white, and ochre.
Using prints inspired by First Nations art, starry galaxies and autumnal leaves, the designerâ€™s eye for understated detailing and uncluttered cuts takes a backseat to the visual clamour of contrasting weights and prints. It resurfaces now and again in loosely structured jackets with tiny mirror panelling, ties, and large collars. In general, Laing offers intriguingly comforting combinations that parallel a multi-textural natural worldâ€”a light intangible sky seen through the dark trees of a boreal forest. While wrapped in warm layers, of course.
Ultimately, Laing proves that intellectual lightness can be combined with a warm, earthy sensitivity, albeit a little disorderly. Then again, nothing in nature is organized perfectly, is it?
Chin Seow Pua, Fashion Writer
Thomas Kletecka/Collective Edit, Photographer