This season, Christian Chenail enhances his brand’s structured classics with a focus on a strongly fitted silhouette, inspired by German New Wave cinema.
Often known for over-the-top detailing, this season Muse depicts a cleaner, more somber collection in a predominantly black, navy, and white palette. Tailored short jackets with high collars paired with variations of the pencil skirt dominate. The simpler cuts and dark colours place the spotlight on utilitarian D-ring hardware, buttons, exposed zippers, and strategic ruching on shoulders. Combining some of these elements results in a black jacquard wool coat with an offset pleated collar and extra-long sleeves, a standout piece of the collection.
Using the optical nature of the circular weaves, prints, and pinstripes, Chenail defines his New Wave vision of the powerful femme fatale. As if to emphasize the point, the long skinny belts wrapping over jackets mimic cinematic framing. At the same time, these multiple textures lend a breath of lightness and whimsy, staying true to the Muse identity.
Chin Seow Pua, Fashion Writer