Minimidimaxi Magazine

Tavãn & Mitto’s Spring/Summer 2003 collection Emilia paves its way in black, white, cream and pink. It leaves the first of many lasting impressions with snow white flowing chiffon, gently but consistently pleated, as seen in the breezy V-neck dress with kimono sleeves. The patterns are as bold as the silhouettes, like the black on white fiddlehead culottes and dinner jackets, the same pattern used in a stroke of black on black subtlety on a pair of fitted pants. Satin and crinoline, notwithstanding their independent beauty, are not immune to the design team’s disciplined vision. The double-layered black crinoline dress falls two steps short of breathtaking collage, yet in no way are the seams regularly cut.

There is something elusive about fashion this balanced, and particularly about Tavãn & Mitto designs, whether it is a lighter-than-air, layered dress or a rigidly cropped pair of pants. Upon closer inspection the mystery is revealed- that unfettered simplicity comes at no easy price. It means rigorous working of fabrics and meticulous attention to tailoring. To create a garment whose extravagant silhouette speaks for itself, the classic self-effacement of the old-school Italian fashion aesthetic is almost necessary. Payam Tavãn and Mike Mitto prove their belief that the work should be subservient to the finished product. The white-contoured dusty rose trench shown in this collection is reminiscent of 1950’s Balenciaga simplicity, while possessing none of its outdoor utility. While embracing tradition, its conventions are cast to the side. There is also a certain intrinsic romanticism that cannot help but show its colours, and historical reference runs even deeper than I had imagined. Payam gives the denouement.

“The collection is a tribute to painter-sculpter Emilia Metrovillia, Mike’s aunt, a dramatic character in her time. In this vein we explore the art deco look of the 20’s and 30’s, for example, in the use of embroidered chiffon.”

For Spring/Summer 2003, Tavãn & Mitto delivers a highly personal statement, and thankfully, one that echoes sentiments readily accessible to the label’s growing clientele.

Daniel Cox, Fashion Editor
Marek Wlazlo, Photographer