Andy - spring/summer 2006

Andy Thê-Anh is back, and this time it’s only Andy. The simplified name brings simplified clothes, as he toted out a commercially slick spring collection at Montreal Fashion Week that presented a toned-down version of the designer’s usual effervescence.

A first glance at the creamy pinks and milk chocolates might leave one doubtful. Cocktail dresses are immaculately tasteful and blouses are quietly elegant, yet where’s the flair we’ve come to expect? The answer comes traipsing down the runway in the form of a southern belle, wearing an Opryland rose blouse and ventilated skirt, gussied up with muted opulence.

In a collection loosely inspired by 70’s fashion icons Yves-St-Laurent and Halston, there is also room for experimental silhouettes.

It’s affirming to see the denim so razor-sharp in the waist-length jackets, a fabric too often left to its own rebellious devices. We see a familiar-if somewhat overplayed-look in the lacquered jersey blouses tucked into summer tweed skirts. Andy’s also given us the cross-your-heart before, but not with these new tailoring twists. The ever-present flounces and glittery Lurex threading are other details that remind us whose collection we’re ogling.

The light chiffon and silk used throughout the collection works well when the pieces are tight and body-hugging, such as the striped tangerine frill-dress dress or the elaborate cowgirl shirts. They don’t work so well on the lifeless 60’s-style crepe blouses. And sorry, but I don’t know anyone who would throw a cardigan over a cotton candy pink ruffle gown, from Andy Thê-Anh no less! There are too many styles running loose here, but thankfully it’s a collection of separates that lends itself to mixing and matching.

Daniel Cox, Fashion Editor
Marek Wlazlo, Photographer