Erdem - spring/summer 2010

Erdem Moralioglu’s spring-summer 2010 collection, shown at London Fashion Week, could have been a Sunday morning garden party on Montreal’s Mount Royal.

The designer’s sharp use of florals is framed in simple silhouettes, now closer to the body, a vision of refined, modern flower power. Undeniable is this native Montrealer’s mastery of flora fantasy − embroidered little pansies were layered over each other, then on prints in coral, green, blue and cream. Loosely structured princess dresses with box pleats and folded tabs accentuate youth with dizzying texture and subtle volume. The Erdem girl is a girl who’s lived in the London scene and who becomes increasingly complex, going from daytime chic to demure glamour.
The flowers part a little to reveal brief breaks of soft nude and black silk. Lace is sprinkled throughout, from a cream lace trench coat to sheaths and skirts of black lace on coral.

Lace and violet layers deepen as day turns to dusk. Colours become more shaded, surreal from a distance, but sharply detailed up close. As the bright prints fade into cinematic black and white, the collection wraps up with a few long silhouettes in black floral on white, leaving no doubt that Erdem’s girl is here to stay.


Seow Chin Pua, Fashion Writer