hip hop   massive attack  clean and the dirty (house)
     MUSIC & FASHION: CLEAN & the DIRTY : HOUSE

Having recently made the transition from cd to the more credible format - WAX - it was time to embrace a new approach to music, a new feel, a new process, new technology, new choices, and new terminology. Now, it's all about dubs and re-rubs, white labels, 12 inches, EP's, acapellas, main vocals, and multiple track versions with slick names like "latenightflight" or "tweak the cork." If you're on point with hip-hop or house, you might find tracks referred to as clean or dirty. This verbiage can also be applied to the fashion show where we typically have two outcomes. One that is "clean" stays true to the message, creates emotion, displays both polish and rhythm, and brings the clothes to life. Or, one that is "dirty" leaves you feeling dissatisfied, it's disjointed, and can imply that the clothes are less than what they might have been or in fact are. In music, the "dirty" is a relevant mix, whereas, in the fashion arena and for our purposes it's not what we are looking for.

For spring/summer 2003 Fashion Week in Toronto, we experienced shows or presentations that were clean, dirty and everything in between. Eryn Reid chose to ride the electro wave, a genre of the moment that combines retro and futuristic elements (for electro house, see, Metro Area). Although her show wasn't flawless, her ideas were consistent, her models were feeling the music, and consequently, the clothes were well received. I remember turning to another member of the media at the time that seemed concerned by the tailoring and you certainly can respect this perspective because a quality product is important. However, at the end of the day or in this case as many shows as you can cram into a couple days, those out on the street want to be inspired and they want to look good. We can't really comment on tailoring unless the clothes are inspected on their clobbers or they're washed several times or unless we have a bonafide media darling and his/her smokeblower's citing craftsmanship, education, exotic fabrics, and bloodlines. However, we can have a drink afterwards and say that show was strangely beautiful, or that show was a lot of fun. At this moment branding has worked and the vision has been received. A clean show at the very least gives you a fighting chance and a dirty one might deflect from what is actually a quality collection. David Dixon already brings forth a reputation of class and quality. He presented with a waterfall backdrop and live percussion with big club beats over swirling violins. Not quite McQueen but effective nonetheless. Here you have the perfect combination of a beautiful collection and a clean presentation. Hoax Couture decided to change its focus from fun evening wear to fun sportswear. Unfortunately they forgot the fun, which has been synonymous with the Hoax label. The mix was choppy, the music flipped genres without consistency, and the models were completely out of form. This potentially detracted from what were some wearable and funky outfits in an environment that only comes together a few times a year.



Metro Area: Metro Area1999

Track: 2. Dance Reaction



Lazy Dog: Lazy Dog 2000

Track: 1. That Day / Future Of The Future
Track: 5. That Day / Future Of The Future

"Girl Who Invented Rock And Roll"

 

Number One on the Fashion Week Charts had to be the Damzels In This Dress show, which saw girly girl models strutting their freak and misbehaving with photographers. The young design duo not only understand their customer but also how they want to present and communicate their message - "girls who know what they want, and know how to get it." Sequestering the services of local club DJ RV from the Bovine Sex Club, etc., they provided a few suggestions, explained their "super vixen" look and their love for his style too, and RV pulled everything together. With classic punk and empowered tracks from all female performers such as Mimi Van Doren ("Girl Who Invented Rock And Roll") and "I Know What Boys Like" by the Waitresses, Damzels' execution was "clean" even though the show was a little dirty.



The Waitresses: King Biscuit Flower Hour 1997

Track: 6.   I Know What Boys Like




Now, it's time to think about the next show and give the collection that best chance and extra voom:voom down the catwalk. Let's begin with house music. It's certainly not my favorite genre of music, in fact, DJ's grow tired at the endless requests for either the jiggy r&b or house and it's relentless 4/4 beat. However, this let's us in on something. People enjoy it and house music provides our models with a definitive groove that will keep the pace moving and comprehensible. House comes in many forms, not without baggage, and has long been affiliated with the decadence of disco, glowstick totting ravers, long winded noodling solos, sentimental vocal snippets ("hurry, hurry don't be late, don't make this love wait"), and a reliance on machine blips, bleeps, and sound f/x. You will be hard-pressed to switch the purists who may never get past the glory days of John Coltrane or Neil Young. However, today we have house DJ's/engineers who are students of music, they are multi-instrumentalists utilizing live instrumentation and collaborating with musicians from all genres. This only happens with respect between artists. Check U2 with Howie B, X-Press 2 with David Byrne, Masters At Work (Nuyorican Soul) with George Benson and Roy Ayers, etc. and here you have artists crossing boundaries, busting genres, and fusing styles in the name of house music. Although many clubs these days are less focused on house and include funk, soul, latin, jazz, and afro, those genres which most influence house, they never ignore house entirely. It's almost always in the mix and leaves you a perfect segue. Not to mention, house music is emotional, uplifting, positive, fun, and sexy. During spring/summer Fashion Week 2003, designer Annie Thompson decided on instrumental hip hop and drum n' bass while Monapali went with Talvin Singh type Eastern influenced beats. It doesn't matter what your affinity is for, or what the season's collection dictates, just be sure the music is emotive and the models are on point with its groove and your message.

Until next time!
Brett Blankstein, Reporter

Minimidimaxi LTD.
Canadian Fashion Stage
All Rights Reserved MINIMIDIMAXI Ltd. 2003©

 



Howie B.: Snatch1999

Track: 07. Maniac Melody



Masters at Work: Our Time is Coming 2002

Track: 14. Deep & Dirty



X-Press 2: Muzikizium 2002

Track: 02. Lazy - (featuring David Byrne)

 



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