Sensation Design Mode Jaguar 2001
Sensation Design Jaguar - Fitting Climax To A Brilliant Season
Montreal’s obsession with Formula 1 autoracing is a well-publicized love affair. It is also no secret that style has become interwoven into Montreal’s cultural fabric, as can be witnessed by any 5-minute jaunt down the street. Boulevard St.Laurent was the spot to indulge in these two passions from June 7-9 at the first edition of Sensation Design Jaguar.
More than 20 Québecois designers strutted their stuff in the open air at this 3-day Dick Walsh production, at both the solo shows and the nightly main event, providing ample evidence that cars and clothes share both design elements and sex appeal.
Montreal “mode masculine” fashion eccentric Yves Jean Lacasse treated the crowd to a spiritual take on fashion in presenting his Envers label’s Fall 2001 collection. The taffeta-ribbed brown/goldenrod longshirt with sunflower prints cinched at the waist is a fine example of Japanese draping techniques with a reflective zen element. Lacasse blends Asian trends with historical male costuming, boiling and hand-dyeing every piece individually.
Marie Saint Pierre once again brings a women’s line of fur-accented pieces to critical acclaim, with multi-layered chiffon draping pieces with fur swatches dangling from the cuff. Categories are blurred, with dresses doubling for coats and shirts possessing vest-like functionality. Marie Saint Pierre’s delicate masterpieces will make their debut at the musée d’Art Contemporain de Montréal in Fall 2001 for ARTCITÉ.
For hip scenesters looking to make a splash year-round, Fidel is the name to remember. Sleeveless T-shirts with the inimitable Fidel logo and colour-contrasted animal insignias are the punchier items available. For some enchanted evening, try the sultry bias-cut gold/black eveningwear.
Marisa Minicucci’s Fall 2001 prêt-à -porter collection re-introduces a daring liberation to fur and tweeds, harkening to 1920’s fashion attitudes. Cassis, azure and chamois on iridescent and mat fabrics are manipulated by Marisa Minicucci and partner Barry Bly to portray a decadent (but manicured) lust for life. The raw-edged full-length fur coats exemplify this best.
Montreal menswear label kamkyl pulled out all the stops at their solo fashion show on the outdoor catwalk to give a welcome surprise: the only designer at Sensation Design Jaguar to show both Fall 2001 and Spring 2002. Kamkyl, led by design team Douglas and Yvonne Mandel, produces a line of sophisticated, high-end clothing that adopts the clean and simple lines of nature. A glimpse into Spring 2002 featured staged a guerilla invasion of masked models parading Kamkyl’s signature “Independent” T-shirt, made partially from the Canadian flag. Fiercely forward-thinking themselves, Kamkyl stands poised to cement their position in Canadian fashion as the makers of a functional second skin for men of taste.
The innovative thinking didn’t stop there. Tavãn & Mitto, Montreal womenswear design duo, took the opportunity to announce their decision to market at least 6 ready-to-wear collections a year. Restricting their first five years in business to made-to-measure, Tavãn & Mitto are reaching out to confident, self-assured women who don’t want to wait the season out to spice up their wardrobe.
Many other designers contributed to this event being a resounding success, including:
Dubuc, Frett, George Lévesque, Veronique D’Aragon, Sheilla Dassin, Harricana, YSO, Helene Barbeau, Justina McCaffrey, Luk, Luscious, Nadya Toto, Nevik, Pureline, Itsus, Rudsak, Shan
The first edition of Sensation Design Jaguar was a fitting climax to a brilliant Fall 2001 season for Canadian designers; designers who are putting their heads together to put their best foot forward. Risks are being taken and horizons are being expanded, as possibilities beyond our geographical borders become the new frontiers. Half the battle, of course, has been convincing the domestic market that Canadian designers are producing competitive fashions and marketing desirable images. In this area, success can be claimed. For the same exposure to be achieved on an international level, ambitious Canadian fashion engines must periodically reduce their velocity to enjoy the track that they’ve carved out for themselves - together.Â
Daniel Cox, Fashion Editor
Marek Wlazlo, Photographer